With the changing weather patterns, maize diseases and the high cost of production, cassava could just be the answer to Kenya's food insecurity
"For me, cassava represents food, a source of income and a
way of life," says Peter Atanga, a 42-year-old man from the North West
highlands of Cameroon. He is just in the process of measuring a basin of gari
(also Garri or tapioca), one of the many ways that cassava is processed for
value addition and storage purposes in Central and West Africa.
Cassava is the region's main staple food. Yet you go into a
restaurant, you will never hear the word cassava spoken out loud. If you didn't
know better, you would not imagine that it is even grown here. This is because
it is rarely consumed in its original form. A large amount of time spent on
farming, business and household activities is dedicated to a chain of
activities related to cassava production and processing.
Atanga is a cassava farmer. At the same time, he has established
a small gari processing plant in his backyard. Gari is the most widely traded
processed cassava product and a popular food in Central and West Africa. It is
estimated that more than 75 per cent of the cassava produced in Africa is
processed into gari. As one can imagine, Atanga rarely goes without business.
When he is not processing his own batch of cassava, he is paid by other traders
to do their own.
"It is a very good business," he proclaims
confidently, explaining that the production of gari is a long and laborious
process: First, the fresh cassava tubers are washed and peeled and grated. The
grated cassava mash is fermented for a couple of days, and then it is pressed
and sieved. It is fried on open fire until it forms coarse flour, which can be
stored for years. "I know that people find it difficult to do all this
work without machines, so they prefer to buy the ready product," he
explains the sense behind his enterprise.
A solution to food security
Often referred to as the answer to Africa's food security
problems, cassava is a versatile and hardy food crop. Its high adaptability
makes it a highly reliable crop that can almost always guarantee a harvest even
when other crops fail. What's more, this ability to withstand adverse weather
and soil conditions has been further boosted by the millions of dollars
invested in researching and improving cassava production.
According to Food and Agriculture Organisation, 893,122 tonnes
of cassava were harvested in Kenya in 2012. In comparison to Cameroon, which
has an annual production of 4,200,000 tonnes, Kenya's cassava production is
still quite low. And this is still nowhere near Africa's leader, Nigeria, which
has an annual production of 54,000,000 tonnes. In continued efforts at
improving production, the Kenya Agricultural Research Institute unveiled five
new species of cassava in 2013. Apart from increased produce, these breeds are
supposed to reduce cyanide levels in the cassava. High cyanide levels in
cassava, especially during drought conditions, is thought to cause Konzo, an
upper motor neuron disease which results in sudden and irreversible paralysis
in children and young women of child-bearing age.
But even as production is improved, the high moisture content of
cassava causes difficulties in storage. Harvested cassava has to be consumed or
processed within 2-3 days or else it will spoil. Considering the barriers that
farmers have to access markets, such as poor infrastructure or exploitative
middle men, it is inevitable that they incur heavy losses.
In this it seems countries like Cameroon have made strides in
preservation and value addition. According to Atanga, the cassava market is
large and it is unusual for one to find cassava in the market after 10am.
"The usual practice is for cassava traders to establish a market before
they bring the crop to the market. However, if they do not sell, they simply
take it back home and process it into fufu or gari," he explains.
Gari is easy to store and prepare into the final dish by mixing
the flour with hot water to form a soft dough, which is then consumed with
vegetable and meat stews. For a snack, gari can be mixed with cold water and
sugar, and if one likes, with roasted groundnuts or milk.
Predictably, it is also Atanga's favourite food and he eats gari
at least twice every week.
Cassava by another name and flavour
In Kenya, cassava is often consumed either boiled or fried.
Those who have ventured to Mama Ngina Drive in Mombasa are no doubt familiar
with the thin slices of cassava rubbed with chilli and lemon, and the
delicious, crispy, freshly fried cassava crisps. In parts of the country, such
as the Western region, dried cassava flour is used as an additive in millet
flour, which is then mixed in hot water and stirred to form wimbi ugali, to be
consumed with meat, vegetable stews or sour milk.
The possibilities seem endless in Central Africa. Apart from the
widespread gari, each country and region has its own specialties. Fufu, which
is eaten with vegetable or meat sauce is also common.
Another variation is called miondo. Fermented cassava tubers are
pressed to remove the water and then wrapped inside leaves and tied with
strings. To eat them, one must boil the thin sticks and then unwrap them from
the leaves. They are a great accompaniment for meat and vegetable stews as well
as roast fish.
That is not all. Cassava leaves, which are rich in proteins,
vitamins and minerals, are also eaten by some of the ethnic groups.
Atanga's favourite snack is Akra banana. He describes it as a
cake which is made by mashing ripe banana and mixing it with grated, pounded
cassava, a mixture that is then shaped and deep fried.
Indicator of wealth and status
Cassava seems to have another function -- determining one's
economic status. There are those who will plainly say, "You cannot eat
boiled cassava. It is the food of the poor." Even a snack of gari steeped
in cold water and sugar, though delicious, is not to be consumed as a meal,
because it indicates that one has no means to buy meat and vegetables to make a
stew. Atanga does not seem to agree. For him, the only explanation for the rare
consumption of boiled cassava is that there are so many other foods that one
can choose to eat.
In Kenya, a similar perception made people turn their backs on
cassava production, focusing instead on maize, a crop which heavily relies on
water to do well. But changing weather patterns in the country, maize diseases,
the high cost of production and other problems have worked against the ability
of maize to secure the country's food supplies.
As the government and its partners look for ways to improve
Kenya's food security, it seems that cassava production will continue to be
promoted. Latest efforts are also geared at helping farmers to process the crop
into flour for the baking industry, for sale to starch making industries and as
a maize substitute in industrial cattle feed production.
Another way to secure food could be to exploiting diversity of
cassava storage, introducing the palate to new culinary exploits. This could
then increase the ways that cassava is consumed and reduce Kenya's reliance on
maize.
Source:
http://allafrica.com/stories/201403120457.html?viewall=1
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